Reviewed · TOURS IN REYKJAVIK
Reykjavík: Multi-Sensory Art Installation Chromo Sapiens
Chromo Sapiens turns three small rooms into a strange, tactile world of color, synthetic hair, and sound. Icelandic artist Shoplifter, also known as Hrafnhildur Arnardóttir, created the work as a trip inward, with you serving as the destination rather than simply looking at art on a wall.
I like the freedom to touch the installation and the way each cave uses sound to change the mood. I also like the useful coffee or soft drink included in the $28 price. The main drawback is simple: this is only three rooms, so anyone expecting a large museum or a full afternoon attraction may find the visit too short.
Key points to know before you go

- Three synthetic-hair caves: The entire installation is built from Shoplifter’s signature hair-extension material.
- Sound by HAM: Icelandic band HAM supplies a different soundscape in each cave.
- A hands-on artwork: You can touch the material rather than keep your distance from it.
- A one-hour plan: The listed visit lasts one hour, though some people have spent longer by revisiting the work.
- Coffee or soft drink included: Food, alcohol, and gift-shop purchases cost extra.
- Easy Reykjavík stop: Höfuðstöðin is open daily, accepts walk-ins, and is wheelchair accessible.
Three rooms, one unusual idea

Chromo Sapiens began at the Icelandic Pavilion during the 2019 Venice Biennale, where it received worldwide attention. In Reykjavík, you see the work at Höfuðstöðin, a former military site with an unusual past of its own.
The central idea is playful but not shallow. You enter as homo sapiens and leave as Chromo Sapiens, a person altered by color, touch, and sound. There is no conventional story to follow and no collection of objects to study. Instead, the artwork asks you to notice your own reaction as the space changes around you.
That makes this a very different stop from the usual Reykjavík museum visit. I would not come here looking for Icelandic history, famous paintings, or a detailed explanation from a guide. You get a sensory setting and the freedom to make of it what you will.
The installation is large in scale, but the route itself is compact. You pass through three caves made from synthetic hair extensions, each with its own soundscape. The material surrounds your field of view, which helps blur the edges of the room and makes the visit feel separate from ordinary indoor space.
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Starting at Höfuðstöðin

Enter through the main door of Höfuðstöðin. The venue is more than an art room, so you can pair the installation with time in its café and bar, outdoor seating, gift shop, or event space.
The building adds a worthwhile layer of context. Höfuðstöðin opened in 2022 in restored army barracks that were used as bomb shelters during the Second World War. The barracks were later moved to their current location and used as potato nurseries for decades.
That history is not the focus of Chromo Sapiens, but it gives the visit a strong sense of place. You are not entering a blank gallery designed only for this artwork. You are visiting an old, repurposed site with several lives behind it.
The host or greeter speaks English or Icelandic. No named guide is assigned, and you should expect the experience to be largely self-directed. That suits the work. A long spoken introduction would probably get in the way of the mood.
Cave one: color takes over

The first cave establishes the basic rules. Color becomes the main event, and the synthetic hair makes the room feel soft, thick, and visually dense.
You can touch the material here, which matters. In most galleries, the first instinct is to keep your hands away from the artwork. Chromo Sapiens reverses that habit. The texture is part of the piece, not a barrier around it.
I recommend moving slowly rather than treating the first cave as a quick photo stop. Look at how the hair changes the room’s edges and notice how your attention shifts when there is no ordinary painting or object to inspect. The work depends on your senses working together, so photographs alone cannot capture the full effect.
The room may feel joyful, odd, or slightly overwhelming, depending on your taste. That is part of the point, but it also explains why the attraction will not suit everyone. If you prefer quiet galleries and clear explanations, the lack of a traditional art route may leave you cold.
Cave two: sound changes the mood

The second cave adds another layer through a soundscape by HAM, the Icelandic band. Sound surrounds the installation rather than functioning as background music you can easily ignore.
This is where the visit can begin to feel closer to a sound bath or meditation session than a standard art exhibit. You do not need to know HAM’s music or understand a set program. Simply spend a few minutes listening while taking in the material around you.
The sound gives the room its own character. Without it, the hair might read as a clever visual trick. With it, the installation becomes more physical and atmospheric. I like that the work does not ask you to stand in one marked spot. You can move, pause, and decide how long to give each section.
The practical warning is that sound-based art is personal. Some people find it calming and happy. Others may find it strange or too loud. Since there are only three rooms, you have time to pause and decide how much of the experience works for you.
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Cave three: the inward journey

The final cave completes the movement from ordinary surroundings to the inner focus of the work. By this point, color, texture, and sound have replaced the familiar signs of a normal room.
The phrase inner landscape is often used to describe reflective art, but here it has a literal visual quality. The hair-covered surfaces make the room feel less like an exhibit and more like a place your senses must figure out. You become aware of where you look, where you touch, and how long you want to stay.
There is no final object waiting to explain the meaning. The intended transformation from homo sapiens to Chromo Sapiens is symbolic, and you are free to take it seriously, lightly, or not at all. I appreciate that flexibility. The installation can work as a quiet pause during a busy day, a playful photo opportunity, or a serious contemporary art experience.
One visitor found the piece so calming and enjoyable that they entered once without background information, watched a video of the artist explaining the work, and then went through again. That is a useful tip if the venue permits additional time during your visit. The first pass lets you react instinctively. A second pass can help you notice how Shoplifter built the connection between material, sound, and emotion.
How much time should you allow?

The official duration is one hour from first activation, which is a sensible amount of time for a first visit. You have enough time to move through all three caves without rushing, pause in each room, and enjoy the included drink afterward.
Still, do not assume that one hour means a tightly timed, guided route. No time slot is needed, and walk-ins are accepted. The experience is open every day, making it easy to fit around Reykjavík sightseeing.
Some people may be ready to leave after 30 to 45 minutes, especially if they treat the installation as three rooms to pass through. Others may want to stay longer, sit with the sounds, or repeat the route. One visitor spent at least two hours by combining a first viewing, an artist video, and another entry.
Because the listed validity is one hour, I would plan around the official duration rather than count on an unlimited visit. If you want to repeat the work or stay well beyond the normal period, ask the staff when you arrive.
Is $28 a fair price?

At $28 per person, Chromo Sapiens is not a cheap coffee stop. You are paying for a contemporary art installation rather than a large museum collection, and the physical route consists of only three caves.
The included coffee or soft drink helps soften the cost. Höfuðstöðin also gives you a café, bar, outdoor seating, and gift shop, so you can turn the visit into a longer stop instead of leaving immediately after the artwork.
The value depends heavily on your interest in sensory art. If you enjoy installations, unusual spaces, and art that you can physically experience, the price is reasonable for a distinctive Reykjavík activity. If you measure value by the number of rooms, the quantity of objects, or the length of a guided tour, it may feel expensive.
I would compare it with the cost of another short city attraction, not with a full museum day. Think of it as a focused one-hour experience with a drink, not an all-day cultural ticket.
Who will enjoy Chromo Sapiens most?

I would recommend this to people who want something outside the usual Reykjavík list. It works especially well for:
- Adults and older children who enjoy color, texture, and unusual contemporary art
- Couples looking for a calm indoor stop
- Anyone who likes sound-based or hands-on installations
- Visitors who want an activity that works in poor weather
- People with a free hour near Höfuðstöðin
- Art lovers who saw Shoplifter’s work connected with the 2019 Venice Biennale
It may be less suitable if you want a long tour, a formal lecture, or a clear historical narrative. The artwork does not explain itself in a conventional way. You need to bring some curiosity and allow your own response to guide the visit.
The venue is wheelchair accessible, which makes this an easier choice for many visitors than attractions with uneven outdoor paths or difficult access. The supplied information does not describe every detail of the route, so you can contact Höfuðstöðin if you need specific access information before arriving.
Small details that improve the visit

Start with an open mind and avoid rushing through the first cave. The work is built around sensory attention, so a quick circuit may make it seem less substantial than it is.
Use the touch element. This is one of the clearest differences between Chromo Sapiens and a standard gallery. You can feel the synthetic hair and notice how the surface changes your sense of the space.
Give the sound a fair chance. You do not need to like every musical choice, but the HAM soundscapes are a core part of the work. If you focus only on the visual material, you miss half of the installation.
Save time for the café and your included drink. That gives you a gentle transition back to the ordinary world and lets you think about what you just saw without crowding the visit.
If you are keen to understand the artist’s intentions, look for the video explanation at the venue and ask staff whether you can experience the installation again. A second pass may feel quite different after you know how the work was made.
Practical planning at Höfuðstöðin
You can visit any day because the installation is open daily. There are no fixed time slots, and walk-ins are accepted, which is useful if Reykjavík weather changes your plans.
Enter through the main door of Höfuðstöðin. The English or Icelandic host can help you get oriented. Food and alcoholic drinks are not included, and gift-shop purchases are separate from the admission price.
The booking terms allow free cancellation up to 24 hours before the visit, with a full refund. You can also reserve now and pay later, which is helpful if you are arranging several Reykjavík activities before your schedule is settled.
Should you book Chromo Sapiens?
Book it if you want a short, unusual, hands-on art experience and you are happy to let color, texture, and sound lead the way. The free drink, accessible venue, daily opening, and flexible walk-in policy all add practical value.
Skip it if three rooms sounds too limited or if you want a traditional museum with lots of objects and clear historical information. At $28, the experience needs to match your taste.
For the right person, Chromo Sapiens is a memorable hour in Reykjavík. It is not a major museum and does not pretend to be one. It is a focused sensory work that asks you to slow down, touch the art, listen carefully, and leave feeling a little different from when you entered.
FAQ
Where is Chromo Sapiens located?
Chromo Sapiens is at Höfuðstöðin in Reykjavík, in Iceland’s Capital Region. Enter through the main door of Höfuðstöðin.
How much does admission cost?
Admission costs $28 per person. A coffee or soft drink is included, while food, alcoholic drinks, and gift-shop items cost extra.
How long does the experience last?
The listed duration is one hour from first activation. Some people may spend longer if they pause, watch the artist explanation, or repeat the installation, but you should plan around the official one-hour duration.
Do I need to reserve a time slot?
No. The installation accepts walk-ins and does not require a time slot.
Is Chromo Sapiens open every day?
Yes. Chromo Sapiens is open every day.
Is the installation wheelchair accessible?
Yes. The experience is wheelchair accessible.
Can I cancel my booking?
Yes. You can cancel up to 24 hours in advance for a full refund. A reserve-now, pay-later option is also available.
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