Reykjavík: Landmannalaugar Hike and the Valley of Tears

Landmannalaugar is the star here: a raw Highland basin of black obsidian, sulfur-stained mountains, steaming springs, and trails that look more like another planet than Iceland. The trip also reaches Sigöldugljúfur, the Valley of Tears, where clear streams and many small waterfalls cut through a dramatic canyon.

I especially like the two-hour guided hike and the generous time at Landmannalaugar, which lets you walk, take photos, or use the hot pool instead of being rushed from one viewpoint to the next. I also like the small-group format and the chance to reach an area that is hard to visit without a 4WD vehicle.

The trade-off is the road. It is long, rough, and tiring, with heavy engine noise and plenty of jolts. If you get carsick, sit toward the front and consider bringing motion-sickness medicine. The views are worth it, but this is not a gentle sightseeing ride.

Key points at a glance

• Landmannalaugar’s volcanic color: Walk among orange, yellow, red, and gray rhyolite mountains formed by Iceland’s volcanic forces.
• A real Highland road trip: The 4WD vehicle handles gravel tracks and rough F-roads that ordinary rental cars cannot use.
• Two hours on foot: The guided route crosses the Laugahraun lava field and heads toward Brennisteinsalda, the Sulfur Wave.
• Hot spring finish: Bring swimwear and a towel so you can bathe in the natural pool after hiking.
• The Valley of Tears: Sigöldugljúfur offers clear waterfalls, small ponds, spring-fed streams, cliffs, and unusual plant life.
• A full-day commitment: The tour costs $210 per person and lasts about 11 hours, with pickup in Reykjavík around 7:30 AM.

Why Landmannalaugar is worth the long ride

Iceland has plenty of easy-to-reach waterfalls and coastal viewpoints. Landmannalaugar is different. It lies in the Fjallabak Nature Reserve in the southern Highlands, reached by rough roads that are part of the adventure.

The reward is a remarkable mix of volcanic features. Rhyolite mountains bring unusual colors to the scene, with minerals such as iron and sulfur adding orange, yellow, red, and greenish tones. Nearby lava fields are dark, jagged, and stark. The contrast is what makes the area so memorable: soft-colored hills beside hard black volcanic rock.

The Laugahraun lava field formed during an eruption in 1477. Its obsidian is smooth, glassy, and sharp-edged. The same black volcanic glass is often called Dragon Glass by fans of Game of Thrones. You do not need to know the television connection to enjoy it, but it gives the rock an easy nickname.

This is also a good choice if you want more than a bus window view. You spend several hours in the reserve, with time for a proper walk and a bath. That extra time matters. A short photo stop would not do Landmannalaugar justice.

The Reykjavík pickup and Highland drive

Pickup is offered at selected Reykjavík hotels and bus stops, including City Hall, the Reykjavík Bus Terminal, Hilton Reykjavík Nordica, Storm Hotel, ODDSSON hotel, and several central stops. You should be ready at 7:30 AM, though the vehicle can take up to 30 minutes to arrive depending on your pickup point.

Keep your phone switched on and connected to mobile data if needed. If the guide cannot find you and cannot reach you, you risk missing the departure. This is a small detail, but it matters more on a remote full-day trip than on a short city excursion.

The vehicle is described as a comfortable Super Jeep or Highland minibus, with Wi-Fi and USB ports. Those are useful touches during a long day. The ride from Reykjavík includes roughly two hours by coach in each direction, and the full journey can feel longer once the rougher roads begin.

The ride is not smooth. You will encounter gravel, bumps, and uneven sections. One traveler described the back row as cramped, and another noted that engine noise made it hard to sleep or hear commentary. My practical advice is simple: choose a seat near the front if you are prone to motion sickness, and do not count on catching up on sleep.

The rough road also explains part of the price. You are not taking a standard city coach to a roadside viewpoint. You are using a vehicle suited to Highland tracks and visiting places that are difficult to reach on your own without a suitable 4WD.

Hjálparfoss, a useful first stop

The first scenic stop is Hjálparfoss, or Help’s Waterfall. It is a two-step cascade that falls into a broad pool surrounded by unusual basalt formations.

The name comes from the old route across the highlands. People crossing the harsh Sprengisandur route needed grazing for their horses, and the greener area near the waterfall offered welcome relief. That small story gives the stop more meaning than a quick waterfall photograph alone.

You will have time for photos, a short walk, and views of the rock formations. It is not the main event of the day, but it breaks up the drive and introduces the contrast between Iceland’s water and volcanic rock.

The schedule can change with road conditions, weather, and the group. Think of Hjálparfoss as a scenic pause rather than a major hike.

Hiking through Laugahraun toward Brennisteinsalda

At Landmannalaugar, the main activity is a guided hike of about two hours through the Laugahraun lava field and toward Brennisteinsalda. The route places you close to the obsidian, rhyolite slopes, small hot springs, and rising steam.

Brennisteinsalda means the Sulfur Wave. It is one of the clearest examples of the area’s mineral colors. The mountain’s appearance comes from volcanic rock and minerals, not painted scenery. Iron and sulfur help produce the warm tones that make the hills so striking.

The walk is described as suitable for beginners, and the distance is manageable for people who are not regular hikers. Still, you need proper outdoor shoes and clothing. Highland weather can shift quickly, and strong wind or heavy rain can make an easy path feel much harder. One September departure had heavy rain and wind strong enough to change the hiking plans for some people, although the hot pool still offered a warm alternative.

The guide leads the main walk, but you are not locked into one experience. You can follow the group, choose another marked trail in the available area, or spend more time near the huts and pool. Some visitors have managed both the Brennisteinsalda and Bláhnúkur routes when conditions and timing allowed, but the standard guided hike is the safer expectation.

Your guide may be one of several members of the company’s team. Eddi, Tomasz, Sarah, Bessi, Eddie, Ignacio, and Einar are among the guides praised for clear explanations, safe driving, humor, and care with the group. The quality of commentary can vary. A small number of people found the sound system hard to hear or wanted more information on the road and at Landmannalaugar, so do not book this solely for a constant stream of expert narration.

The strongest guides add useful context about geology, folklore, road conditions, and Icelandic stories. Some also help with photographs and suggest viewpoints. The experience works best when you ask questions and stay near the guide during the walk.

The natural pool after the hike

Landmannalaugar’s natural hot pool is one of the tour’s best practical touches. After walking over black lava and uneven ground, you can change into swimwear and relax in warm geothermal water.

Bring a swimsuit and towel. They are not supplied. You should also pack clothes that are easy to put on again in changing weather, along with a waterproof layer for the walk back to the vehicle.

The exact amount of bathing time depends on the day’s timing and group movement. Most departures leave enough room for a proper soak, but one person wanted more time in the pool after other participants took a wrong turn. That is a useful reminder that this is a group outing, not a private timetable.

If you do not want to bathe, you can use the time for photos or a quiet look around the huts and surrounding mountains. The pool is optional, so you are not forced into swimwear or geothermal water.

Sigöldugljúfur, the Valley of Tears

The final major sight is Sigöldugljúfur, known as the Valley of Tears. This canyon has become popular for good reason. Spring-fed streams spill into clear waterfalls and small ponds, while colorful plants soften the cliffs and dark volcanic surroundings.

The water can look intensely blue against the rock, and the many small falls give the canyon a different character from Iceland’s larger single-drop waterfalls. Instead of one dramatic cascade, you get a layered view of streams, pools, vegetation, and cliff walls.

This stop is mainly for sightseeing and photography. It does not replace the main hike at Landmannalaugar, but it adds a second type of Highland scenery to the day. Landmannalaugar is about volcanic mountains and lava. Sigöldugljúfur is about water cutting through the same broad volcanic region.

Several people considered the Valley of Tears the highlight of the outing. I would keep expectations realistic: the stop is shorter than the Landmannalaugar visit, and weather or road conditions can affect the view. Still, its unusual mix of waterfalls and clear water makes it far more than a routine photo stop.

How the timing feels over 11 hours

This is a full day, not a quick excursion. Pickup begins around 7:30 AM, and you return to Reykjavík after a long ride back. The schedule is built around several stops, with the largest block of time at Landmannalaugar.

The pace is generally sensible. You get time for the guided walk, independent exploring, photos, and the hot pool. The other stops help break up the drive, but the main reason to book is the Highland visit, not the waterfall stops alone.

Bring lunch and snacks before departure. Food and drinks are not included. One practical tip is to buy lunch in Reykjavík before pickup, since the tour information does not promise a meal stop.

Pack light but prepare for real outdoor conditions:

• Hiking shoes with a firm sole
• Rain gear and warm outdoor clothing
• Hat and gloves
• Swimsuit and towel
• Camera
• Small daypack
• Food and water for the day

The tour is not suitable for children under 10 or wheelchair users. You also need enough mobility for a roughly two-hour walk over uneven volcanic ground, even though the hike is considered beginner-friendly.

Is $210 good value?

At $210 per person, this is not a cheap day trip. It becomes better value if you do not have access to a suitable 4WD vehicle and want a guided visit to Landmannalaugar without handling the Highland roads yourself.

The price covers Reykjavík pickup and drop-off, the vehicle, an English-speaking guide, the guided walk, the Valley of Tears stop, and the chance to use the hot pool. You also get a small group rather than a large sightseeing coach, plus Wi-Fi and USB charging on board.

The cost makes less sense if you dislike long drives, want a quiet luxury vehicle, or prefer to hike independently for an entire day. The bus can be noisy, the back seats may feel tight, and the rough road is unavoidable.

For the right person, the value is in access. You are paying to reach a remote volcanic area, have someone else handle the difficult driving, and combine two major Highland sights in one day. That is a fair deal for many Reykjavík visitors with limited time.

Who should book this experience?

I would choose this tour if you want a first taste of Iceland’s Highlands and prefer a guided outing. It suits people who enjoy unusual geology, moderate walks, dramatic scenery, and a hot spring afterward.

It is also a good fit for solo visitors. The small-group setup makes it easy to meet other people, while the flexible time at Landmannalaugar means you do not have to spend every minute walking with the group.

You should think twice if you have a bad back, severe motion sickness, limited mobility, or little patience for rough roads. The scenery is exceptional, but the route is physically tiring and the day is long.

The best weather can make the hike feel easy and the colors especially clear. Poor weather can turn the same route into a cold, wet outing. Bring serious rain gear and accept that the guide may adjust the walk for safety.

Should you book the Landmannalaugar and Valley of Tears tour?

Book it if Landmannalaugar is high on your Iceland wish list and you do not have your own capable 4WD. The combination of obsidian fields, colorful rhyolite, a guided hike, a natural hot pool, and Sigöldugljúfur gives you a strong introduction to the Highlands in one day.

Do not book it expecting a smooth ride or a relaxed coach excursion. Sit near the front, bring lunch, wear proper shoes, and keep your schedule free for the entire day.

For most active visitors, the rough road is a fair price for access to one of Iceland’s most unusual regions. The Valley of Tears is a fine bonus, but Landmannalaugar is the reason to go.

FAQ

How long does the tour last?

The experience lasts about 11 hours, including pickup in Reykjavík, the drive to the Highlands, sightseeing stops, the hike, bathing time, and the return journey.

What time should I be ready for pickup?

You should be ready at 7:30 AM. The minibus may take up to 30 minutes to arrive, depending on the distance from your pickup location.

Where can I be picked up in Reykjavík?

Pickup is available at selected hotels and bus stops, including City Hall, the Reykjavík Bus Terminal, Hilton Reykjavík Nordica, Storm Hotel, ODDSSON hotel, and several central bus stops.

How difficult is the hike?

The guided hike lasts about two hours and is described as beginner-friendly. You still need hiking shoes and must be comfortable walking over uneven volcanic ground.

Can I swim in a natural hot spring?

Yes. The tour allows time to bathe in Landmannalaugar’s natural hot pool. Bring your own swimsuit and towel.

Is food included?

No. Food and drinks are not included, so buy lunch and snacks before the tour.

Is the ride comfortable?

The vehicle includes Wi-Fi and USB ports, but the Highland roads are rough and bumpy. The ride can be noisy, and the back may feel cramped. A front seat can help if you get carsick.

Is the tour suitable for children and wheelchair users?

The tour is not suitable for children under 10 years old or wheelchair users.